Unlike a lot of toasters this one was built so that it could be repaired and as a result, despite it’s age, this one is still in good working order (though I have had to replace a few of the heating elements).
The bottom is held on with 4 standard machine screws. A bracket holding the heating elements in place is held in by 1 more screw. Each element can then be slid out after unbolting the electrical connections.
Unlike most toaster manufacturers, Dualit sell parts, including but not limited to the elements.
So, whilst they’re not cheap (and a warning, unfortunately I don’t think the cheaper models of Dualit toaster are repairable), there are some that are and there are some available second hand.
count down timer must click OFF. If it doesn’t this is still a live appliance and the timer needs replaced. Note the warning labels on the rotary dial and on the power cable to unplug after use.
The clear plastic protection on the element cards deteriorates over time and may cause a PAT test to fail as 500v will cross from the element wire to the chassis. Don’t trust old cards test them for insulation resistance.
The larger toasters are a full 3kW rated and wires, crimp terminators and wire insulation can deteriorate. Only certain Faston crimp connectors are rated to cope with high current and temps.
The round plug can require replacement. Check inside it for wear or damage.
Interesting, thanks for the information. Ours tends to be left plugged in, there’s no such warning on the dial. I suspect it predates such warnings. As it happens the plug on ours was replaced for one with an RCD built in.
I’d also caution any repairs on 1970/1980’s toasters, hairdryers etc. I had one toaster. Morphy Richards TUID/3 and it contained asbestos in the element cards.
Hairdryers in the same era are perhaps worse as they blow particles into the air.
